surf-matic

waves, culture, aphorisms

foto friday

Surprise! A Foto Friday!

 

Getting it sideways on a quick hit taka.

 

Ah! the many wonder of the Koi and coy-- color and flirtation.

 

Not much of a better foundation is needed more than an uncrowded A frame.

 

Modern life always improves, right? Right? RIGHT?

 

I have no idea where or what this is, but it looks amazing and I hope it's real.

 

Wearing pads is so lame...

 

They say that there is a shark within 20 ft of you whenever you are in the Ocean.

 

They look like they're having fun.

 

Parrots might apparently have language skills that rival thsoe of primates.

 

New York New York. She calls me back again and again.

 

Do it and do it good.

 

Boredom is a sin of sorts, my mother said to me growing up.

 

This sand storm at sea gives "Storm Chase" a new meaning.

 

Style is about contrast and extremes. NYC/Maui for 2013.

 

I love this. By Bruce Mackay. That's all.

 

foto friday

New York is a zoo. But getting a lot done. And here’s a foto friday.

 

Oh hello!

 

Grab hold of each other and roll forward, sans breaks of course.

 

Behind each city light is another set of eyes.

 

The eyes have it.

 

The water is coming. The water is coming. The water is coming.

 

The missionaries in Hawaii brought thorny trees from Africa so that the natives would have to wear shoes

 

No parking.

 

Death becomes all.

 

Polar bears are one of the few animals that are known to actively hunt men.

 

Light/shadow and perspective. What more does one need.

 

Oh, as I post this on an East Coast Sunday morning I can’t help but meditate–ever so briefly– on what windsurfing means to me. As I grow into myself as a windsurfer, I find myself calling upon the Hawaiian influences of surfing– the flow and freedom style. The Gerry Lopez style of wave riding. Or Josh Angulo. At some point in the 80’s (or was it the 70’s… or the 90s?) the Australian school of surfing took over– the slice and dice and slash it up style. Gerry riding a wave at Pipe is dropping in relaxed and finding a comfy spot in the tube, becoming one with the wave. A bit different than the current style in vogue (though I do appreciate the slashing). And I see Hawaiian surf style seeping into the rest of my life. Now I’m on the East Coast working on a business project and writing, and I am obviously jonesing for some waves, but I also love the freedom of not being a complete slave to the sea and all her forms. Well, who am I kidding? Of course the sea is my master. Just not all the time. I guess all I’m trying to say is that a totalitarian freedom is not a complete freedom at all.

foto friday

First off, I know it’s not Friday. But given the near fatal case of jet-lag I’ve been stuck with since Japan, it might as well be Friday for all I know. I’m at it again though and am off to NYC for NYE. Take a foto friday for you Sunday or Monday. It’s all good. (also, the new wordpress’ media functionality seems reduced, so this post is a few pics short. but when I get some time, I’ll work the rest in PS and upload them.)

 

It's sharky lately.

 

The soul lives in the eyes.

 

Hitting the lip, Jay Adams style.

 

NYC for NYE!

 

Wttgenstein in your ear. Have some modernity with that, it tastes better.

 

It's all about perception, the one inescapable human vice.

 

Antarctica recycles your dreams.

 

Few feeling are better than hitting a lip or landing a trick. I'm off of the water for a week but will be hunry to get back in the curl.

 

foto friday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

foto friday

 

I’m in Japan at a competition. No wind at the moment but the forecast is for improvement. Until then, have a ff.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

foto friday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

foto friday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

foto friday

I’m in LA for the long weekend– back to Maui on Sunday. It’s been a good autumn so far. My trip to Portugal was transformative, and I’m now working to make the dreams of the trip reality. In other news, I picked up a windsurfing mag and found a photo of my broken face from the Pistol River contest and a libelous article smearing me. Well, that’s not very nice. I’ll comment on that here in an post that is funny, informative, and not about me at all (isn’t that the only way to respond?). But for now, take a foto friday:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

foto friday

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

foto friday