waves, culture, aphorisms

Month: April, 2013

The Importance of Crashes, Falls, and Wipeouts

    People ask me for windsurfing advice all the time. How to pushloop, how to tack, how to taka, etc. But nobody ever asks me how to fall. “Huh?” I hear you asking, “Why would anyone need to learn how to fall?” Fall equals fail in the internet’s vernacular. Fails plaster the pages of […]

Mud, Rocks, and Jaws (part 2)

    The Climb The climb down was harder than I expected. My feet slid on both dirt and rocks. At one moment, my mast began to slip free from the loosely bundled windsurfing gear and I had to hug the bundle tightly to my chest to stop the mast from sliding out from my […]

Mud, Rocks, and Jaws (part 1)

    Fear is a bruise. It pulls you to poke it. Scratch the scab off to see if it bleeds. Test the swollen (broken?) ankle. Can I walk? Is it actually broken? Vertigo is fear of heights, yes. But Vertigoers describe it as a fear that on the edge of the precipice their bodies […]

Back again! … and Jaws.

  “LARGE AND DANGEROUS SURF WILL IMPACT MOST NORTH AND WEST FACING SHORES OF THE SMALLER ISLANDS TOMORROW THROUGH SATURDAY. ” Big waves are coming to Hawaii! All the pro windsurfers are getting ready for Jaws on Friday. It’s going to terribly crowded on the water. I hope to return here with some stories.   […]