waves, culture, aphorisms

Month: July, 2011

his master– the sea

The Aran Islands lie off Western Ireland. All three are small… wastes of rock… without trees… without soil… In winter storms they are almost smothered by the sea… which, because of the peculiar shelving of the coastline, piles up into one of the most gigantic seas in the world. In this desperate environment the Man […]

must we not pay a debt to pleasure too?

Windsurfing is the perfect enjoyment– it is the precise alchemical blend of pain and pleasure. Ah the pain! Do you remember learning to waterstart? Do you remember the agony of floating downwind, foot propped on the board, and neck craned up willfully wishing for the body to rise up out of the water pulled by […]

urgent: best women’s surf film

My hat goes off to Nike for putting together “Leave a Message,” one of the best sport films I’ve seen in a while. It features 6 up-and-coming women surfers, and they rip. The surfing is incredibly progressive, the music is fun, and everything is beautiful. The lineup includes: Monyca Byrne-Wickey from Hana, Hawaii Malia Manuel […]

Intervals vs 10,000 hours? A look at windsurf training

Obviously there are no set rules to training. There is an unproven though generally accepted rule that it takes 10,000 hours to reach a level of mastery in any endeavor, be it sport or art. 10,000 hours (a number garnered from rigorous statistical study of masters) is about 3 hours of practice a day for […]

dog rides shark

nuff said

this is beautiful

I love when skateboarders interpret the urban environment and use it to express themselves. It is a true release of creativity. A form of surfing where you must form the wave in the mind before riding it. It becomes a way of turning the cold concrete back into something human.

News, Royalty, and Spray

The sport news site Daily House is live! The website will feature interesting news from a host of sports, and the extreme section should be stocked full of interesting and exciting films, interviews, and stories. Yesterday, I mentioned Surfline’s article on the new ASP and the need for the “Dream Tour”. If you haven’t read […]

On the Oregon Trail: a Critical Look at the AWT Pistol River

At the start of June, I left warm-but-flat Maui for the cold waves of Pistol River, Oregon and the AWT competition there. Everyone bitches about the cold water, but the thick wetsuit rubber bothers me more than the cold water (the water is just an incentive not to fall!), so I prefer a thinner wetsuit […]